Orchid Care
Because of the diversity of orchids, there is no "One Method" of orchid care. The type of orchid care that your orchid plant needs depends on the type of growing environment of its natural state.
For this reason the most important part of orchid care is learning about your orchid flowers natural environment. Some orchids are adapted to deep shade while other orchid plants require bright sunshine. Each orchid flower also has specific requirements for humidity, temperature and growing medium.
That said, however, orchid care is does not have to be rigidly followed. Orchid flowers are quite hardy and are able to withstand most of the natural fluctuations that occur in any wild environment.
If you are just starting out with orchids, you are best to choose an orchid plant that requires easy orchid care.
Light for Orchid Care
Before choosing an orchid plant, consider where you are going to grow it and access the light level of that location. Different types of orchids have different light requirements, so this is one of the most important considerations in orchid care.
Orchid plants that do well in low-light conditions include Paphiopedilum (Lady Slipper), Phalaenopsis, and Oncidium. If you have moderate to high light conditions you should choose an orchid flower like Cattleya, Dendrobium, or Vanda. These three orchids respond best to orchid care which includes warm temperatures and a south or west facing window.
Temperature for your Orchid Plant
Generally speaking orchid do best in a warm, moist environment, which is why so many are grown in greenhouses. This does not mean, however, that you need a greenhouse to provide adequate orchid care. In fact, many orchid plants are quite suitable for the average temperatures of most homes.
A stable temperature is preferred over fluctuating hot and cold, but orchids are quite hardy and some are even able to withstand short exposures to freezing temperatures.
Humidity for the best Orchid Flower
Here again, the comfort level for people is a good gauge for most orchid flowers. A home with dry air will mean discomfort for both the human and the orchid inhabitants, so get a humidifier so increase the moisture levels - especially during the winter months.
Take care not to give too much water to your orchid. Most orchids are epiphytic meaning that they grow on other plants or materials rather than in the soil. They should never be allowed to soak in water because they don't do this in their natural environment.
So, for the best orchid care, find out how your orchid grows in the wild and try to duplicate those conditions. That doesn't mean creating a jungle in your home, but if you make your orchid feel "at home" it will reward you with years of beauty.
Comments
Mary
09 Nov 2006, 06:56
I have a Cattleya which hasn't bloomed for the past year. Reading this
article I guess my orchid doesn't get enough light. I'll have to buy some
artificial lights as my window is shaded most of the time. Annoying because
when I bought the plant they told me I wouldn't need ANY artificial
lighting....
Thanks!
david craig
09 May 2007, 04:34
hi, after the flower dies on the stem, do you cut the stem? and if so will
it flower
again on that stem? david.
David
09 May 2007, 09:34
Yes, I've found that I need artificial lights for my Catteleyas during the
winter
months - and the humidifier needs to be going constantly.
SUSOVAN SINHA
19 Sep 2007, 09:35
PLEASE MAIL ABOUT ORCHID NUTRITION DOSAGE TEMPERATURE LIGHT AND THE
VARAITIES THAT CAN EASULY BLOOM IN INDIAN CULTURE WARM REGARDS SUSOVAN
SINHA INDIA
Michael Liu
15 Apr 2008, 18:04
Hello, I recent bought an orchid from the supermarket,the flower buds on my
plant does not keep growing and opening, and seems to collapse and shrink
out one after one. Very worry,I don't know what I did wrong. What can I do
to keep it blooming? Thanks and regards.
Michael Liu (Vancouver, BC)
Hildi
10 Jun 2008, 10:30
Please let me know,, if after the flower dies on the stem, what I should
do, cut the dead flowers? and if the flower come back again,if so, how long
is going to take it?, and if I have to do something with the plant or leave
it along.
Thanks. Hildi
Rachel
16 Jun 2008, 11:20
I have an orchid that the blooms have already fallen off... should i cut
back the stem so they can grow more? There are two stems and one of them is
brown.. is that normal? Thank You.
cheryl
18 Jun 2008, 09:31
i have a orchid which was bought from the supermarket,iwent away&i think
some1as over watered it.the flowers in the middle look dead but there are
2flowers on the tip& 1at the start of the stem which are alive.should i cut
the middle flowers off??i also put it on the radiator for a short time so
it would dry out,i really don`t know,what is the best thing to do????
len
22 Jun 2008, 19:58
after my orchid gives me flower,where to cut for giving me a chance of new
flower again
Vickie
29 Jun 2008, 09:39
I have a Scent of a Woman orchid. The blossoms are gone. What do I do now?
Please include tips for fertilizing and such. Thanks.
Vickie
29 Jun 2008, 09:39
I have a Scent of a Woman orchid. The blossoms are gone. What do I do now?
Please include tips for fertilizing and such. Thanks.
Janet
11 Jul 2008, 07:35
I have cut the stem of my orchid. A new leaf has begun to grow. Will I
ever get flowers again? Also, What advice do you have for a beginner of
orchids?
Thanks very much,
Janet
Kathy
24 Jul 2008, 10:37
I have a beatiful orchid that has lost all it's blooms-the stem is turning
brown from the tip towards the bottom-what should I do to encourage more
blooms-do I cut the stem???
Kathy
24 Jul 2008, 10:38
I have a beautiful orchid that has lost all it's blooms-the stem is turning
brown from the tip towards the bottom-what should I do to encourage more
blooms-do I cut the stem???
Kathy
24 Jul 2008, 10:38
I have a beautiful orchid that has lost all it's blooms-the stem is turning
brown from the tip towards the bottom-what should I do to encourage more
blooms-do I cut the stem???
Sylvia
01 Sep 2008, 20:22
Hi
I'd like soem tips on growing a cymbidium and a dendrobium. My dendrobium
flower has started to turn brown and I'm not sure if it's time for th
eflower to fall off or if I am doing soemthing wrong?
I keep the dendrobium in the bathroom - a lot of natural morning light (not
direct), large bathroom so plenty of light and air flow. Once a week I
water it and keep in in the window (some direct winter light) for an hour
or so. I have fertilized it too and am not sure how often I shoudl do
this. I have used soem slow rekease fertilizere which says it lasts for 4
months.
Any tips would be much appreciated! Thanks.
maggie
18 Oct 2008, 12:35
i have had my orchid for 5 months and has not died but today it has my
question if it dies can it grow blooms back or is it done.
Keturah
08 Nov 2008, 15:41
I have a cymbidium that was blooming when I first got it, then the flowers
fell off and the stem is now a brown, shriveled twig. I was told by a
friend not to cut it off because it would not bloom again for a long time,
so I have left it. The plant has produced a new set of leaves and has sent
out about 5 or 6 new roots, but no sign of a new stem. The leaf base is
starting to look a little leggy. I am new to orchid care...what do I do to
help it bloom again? It does not have the best light....it is east-facing
with a porch blocking some of the sun. I do have a humid south-facing
environment I can move it to in my bathroom but it is a frosted window --
not sure if that would be sufficient light if that is the problem. Thanks
for your help!
Sara
12 Dec 2008, 09:21
Hi,
I am a new ochid owner. I have had 3 orchids for about 6 months now. i Have
2 phalaenopsis and another that has several stems coming from the pot that
bloom independently (not sure of the species) I got them when they were
blooming now I'm worried that they may be dying. New leaves and stems are
sprouting on all 3, but the old stems that were blooming when I purchased
them have turned brown and appear to be hollow. I water them about every 10
days and they are kept in my dorm room by the window. I have never used
fertilizer on them so that may be the problem?
Thanks in advance,
Sara
lori
31 Dec 2008, 09:16
Do I cut the flower stem on my orchid after the flowers have died?
saroj
03 Jan 2009, 22:43
i would like to have answers on all these questions because i am also new
to grow orchids
Dave
13 Jan 2009, 15:59
Yeah, cut it off to the base, that'll
do it.
Susana
26 Jan 2009, 19:45
My orchid plant leaves keep going dark and dry and then drop off.
Eventually the orchid dies. I have tried several different types. Can you
make a suggestion?
Ann
28 Jan 2009, 15:48
I also have an orchid that came with no care instructions. One of the
leaves began to turn yellow than brown, as did one of the stems. Do I cut
them off? Do I trim the stems back after flowering?
Betty
29 Jan 2009, 10:39
I have the ladies dancing orchid (oncidiums) I was wondering now that it
done blooming and the shoots dont have flowers on it do I cut them back yes
they are very green. If I have to cut them back how far
Bob
07 Mar 2009, 08:54
My orchid puts out a bud on the end of the stem, but that bud always seems
to shrivel and die. This has now happened twice. It seems healthy
otherwise, since it is putting out stems along the main one, which also
have buds on them. Is this overwatering? Or is the problem something else?
wtp
12 Mar 2009, 07:49
What's the point of having a blog with a bunch of questions and no answers?
jean
13 Mar 2009, 07:56
excellent question! my questions are many of the same as above.
Answers???
Thanks
http://www.staugorchidsociety.org/
25 Mar 2009, 23:04
I am a member of the orchid society above and have worked in a small
orchid nursery for two years. I am by no means an expert, but I will try
to answer these questions. Some answers are also available at our website,
so check it out.
The most common question was "What do I do after my orchid has
finished blooming?" After the flowers have fallen off, cut the bloom spike
off as far down as possible without cutting the plant itself. Put common,
household cinnamon on that cut and any other cuts you make. Cinnamon is a
natural antibacterial that will dry out the cut and prevent fungis and rot
from entering.
There are a few exceptions to the rule for cutting a bloom spike. You
may reflower your Phalaenopsis orchid on the same stem by cutting the
flower stalk just above the first node after the flowers. A node is one of
the little triangular pieces spaced along the stem. Then one of three
things will happen: It will produce a side branch with four or five
flowers, it will make a keiki (a baby plant), or the stalk will turn brown
and then needs to be cut off. It can be done as many times as there are
nodes.
However, we do not recommend cutting the stem in this way. Each time
you force your phalaenopsis to flower you are taking energy from the plant
and Phalaenopsis orchids have been known to bloom themselves to death. If
you try this method, do it only once. Then allow your plant to rest.
Some orchids, like Psychopsis, rebloom off of the same spike. Cutting
the spike on one of these slow-growing orchids could mean you have lost
your chance to enjoy its flowers for a very long time. These are not
usually sold anywhere except at places specializing in orchids and the
grower will usually tell you ahead of time.
Once the plant has finished blooming and the bloom spike has been cut
off, it is time to repot if it needs it. If you have repotting questions,
ask. I will keep an eye on this blog for a little bit.
For Michael, Cheryl, and maybe Bob. Orchids sometimes develop a
condition we call "bud blast" in which the flower bud yellows,shrivels, and
falls off. This is usually in the middle of the stem (orchids seem to have
an interesting form of revenge)and arises from a variety of problems.
Number one is a change in humidity or temperature. You have just
brought that beautiful, blooming orchid home from the show which may have
involved a long car ride, a hotel room, and possibly your air-conditioned
house. This orchid is almost guaranteed to experience blasting.
Generally, the change in environment will stress the plant out to some
degree and cause this phenomenon. What to do? Baby the plant like they've
told you not to. Always water a plant you have just purchased.
Most orchids in grocery stores have not been watered since the day
they arrived at the store. Put your orchid out of the direct path of your
heating and air. An air conditioner sucks moisture out of the air and
dries your plant out fast. Put it in a slightly darker place than its
final home for the night. A stressed plant will succumb to traumas like
sunburn and insect pests much easier than a plant that is established in
its spot.
Reason number two is that the plant has more blooms that it can
successfully support. If this is the case, it will abort flowers. Again,
usually in the middle of the flower spike. On your phalaenopsis orchids,
this tends to happen when a spike is multi-branching or you have several
bloom spikes. To stop this from happening, it is recommended that you not
allow your plant to have more than three bloom spikes and limit it to only
one if there is a lot of branching.
Reason number three is also part of reason one. Your plant may need a
little extra water when it is in bloom. The plant can lose blooms if it is
dehydrated.
Finally, for Bob if the previous did not answer the question. On all
flower spikes there is a "terminal bud" which will not ever bloom. This is
the little blip at the very end of the stalk. It could be this that you
are talking about. However, some orchids like paphiopedilum,
phragmipedium, and psychopsis can be multifloral. One flower will be on
the stalk while a bud forms slightly behind it. When the flower falls off,
the next bud will open. If these are shriveling, then it is bud blast.
Try increasing the water.
On to cattleyas and bloom times. Mary may be right about her cattleya
needing more light, but that is probably not the case. While there are a
few hybrids out there that will bloom multiple times in a year, cattleyas
generally bloom only once a year. After it adjusts to your growing
conditions, take note of when it blooms and mark it on your calendar. It
will bloom again at the same time next year. Oncidiums will bloom on new
growth which can mean three or four bloom cycles in a year. Generally, two
bloom cycles will have a small amount of spikes (one spike for a plant in a
six inch container) and two bloom cycles will be absolutely spectacular.
My Mtssa. C.M. Fitch Izumi (in the oncidium alliance) was in a four
inch container when I bought it with four bloom spikes. I planted it in a
six inch pot after blooming. The next bloom cycle had only one bloom
stalk. The cycle after that had sixteen bloom spikes.
Phalaenopsis generally bloom once a year and they need a chill to do
it. I'm in North Florida where we generally never open a window. In the
early fall [September-November] I leave my plants outside in a sheltered
location until the second time it drops into the mid-40s. If it drops
below 40 I have to bring them in or protect them from the cold. This will
initiate the bloom spike that will develop and open sometime in the spring.
Northern growers can get away with leaving them in their window sill. The
cold winter air will find its way around the frame and do the same thing.
The savy orchidist in the right climate can get their phalaenopsis orchid
to bloom twice a year. Here it reaches those temperatures
September-October and February-March. Remember that your phalaenopsis must
rest sometime, though. Use your judgement to determine if your plant can
withstand two bloom cycles before resting.
To Susana, Ann, and Maggie. Orchids will occasionally lose old
leaves. On a phalaenopsis, if the bottom leaves are turning yellow then
they are just old. Pull them off. Oncidiums will lose the leaves
surrounding the pseudobulb in the same way. They can also lose top leaves
on the oldest bulbs. Those will generally be the smallest bulbs on the
plant. This is nothing to worry about.
Now, if the top leaves of a phalaenopsis or cattleya or the top leaves
on new growth on your oncidium is turning yellow, the plant is getting too
much light. Put it in a shadier place. You may lose the leaves that have
turned yellow. With oncidiums and cattleyas go ahead and remove the yellow
leaves. Remember to put cinnamon on any cuts.
With phalaenopsis you have to be careful. If it is the very top leaf,
leave it but watch the plant carefully. Phalaenopsis grow up from the
center. If any damage happens to that center your plant is as good as
dead. It may produce a baby, but it will never bloom again. Sunburn can
make a path for black rot to enter and kill your plant. If the yellow
continues to spread, becomes soft, or changes to squishy brown or black you
will have to cut the leaf off. Take a sterile razor and cut 1/2 in into
the good, green flesh of the leaf. Put cinnamon on the cut. Avoid cutting
the very center. If the rot has spread to the center it's too late to save
it. Black rot in oncidiums and cattleyas will appear in the pseudobulbs
first. Remove the entire psuedobulb and put cinnamon there. Get rid of
the contaminated foilage and wash your hands before touching any other
plants. Black rot can be spread to other plants from the fluid that will
get on your hands and blade. That is why a disposable razorblade works
best for this.
If a plant has shriveled or leathery leaves that eventually dry up
it's usually either too much water or not enough. With too much water, the
orchids' roots have rotted away. This decreases or eliminates the ability
of the plant to absorb water and it dies of dehydration [water, water all
around and not a drop to drink]. With not enough water, the roots will be
there but there is no water to pull in.
First determine which it is. Do you water heavy or not at all? Unpot
the plant and look at the roots. If they are squishy and brown they are
dead-too much water. If they are silvery, white but shriveled-not enough
water. Oncidiums, Paphiopedilums, Phragmipediums, and other orchids that
can be terrestrial are exceptions. Ground orchids will have thin, brownish
roots suited to soil. For oncidiums, look at the pseudobulbs. These are
water storage containers for the plant. They should be plump and full. If
the plant is wasting away with plump pseudobulbs-too much water. Shriveled
pseudobulbs-not enough water. Phragmipediums you cannot overwater. We
have ours growing in an orchid bark mix and sitting in water almost to the
top of the pot! If these are not doing well, fertilizer has built up in
the water (dump it)or the media has broken down (repot it). Paphiopedilums
are the hardest to tell. They are evenly moist, but not wet. There are no
telltale signs as to which it is except for an examination of your watering
habits. Another easy test on your watering. Take a freshly sharpened
pencil or a wooden skewer and insert it into the pot for about 10 seconds.
If it comes out moist you don't need to water. If it comes out dry then
water.
Cattleyas-Bright shade, dry out between waterings.
Phalaenopsis-shade and evenly moist. Don't let it dry out, but it
shouldn't be soggy.
Oncidiums-medium to bright shade, can dry out between waterings or
stay moist all the time. Looking at your pseudobulbs will help to gauge
watering.
Other alliances-ask
Hope this helped
Haley
Carla White
16 Apr 2009, 17:30
My cymbidium orchid has brown tips and didn't bloom. What can I do? I do
hvae them in orchid bark. Thanks for your help. Carla
Carla White
16 Apr 2009, 17:31
My cymbidium orchid has brown tips and didn't bloom. What can I do? I do
hvae them in orchid bark. Thanks for your help. Carla
sarah
17 Apr 2009, 15:50
My first Cymbidium and the flower was in bloom for about 8 weeks after I
bought it. last week 2 of the flowers shriveled and fell off and this week
I came home and all of the flowers are brown and shriveled (but haven't
fallen off). The stem is also getting yellow and turning brown. Is this
normal? The weather did get a lot hotter this last week. what should i
do?
Thank you!
winston
01 May 2009, 09:10
why is it the buds on orchid
have gone yellow
Althea Nelson
02 May 2009, 20:10
when should I cut the stem of my vanda when all the flowers have fallen
off?
Sara Buchanan
02 Jun 2009, 12:54
I purchased a cymbidium this week-end from a local supermarket. It had 3
flowering spikes. For the first few days it was on kitchen table with 1 hr
of direct light and medium to little light for rest of day. By second day I
noticed the blooms on one spike are turning brown and the spike is turning
yellow. I have moved it outside in simishade. Should I cut the spike
before or after the blooms fall? If so where.
Mandy wood
19 Jun 2009, 08:10
right now my orchids are great. but i have one that has leaves and flowers
coming out of the stem all over the place. where shoulg i cut it?
Katharine Howard
01 Jul 2009, 09:06
Please help!!!!!
I bought two beautiful new orchids from the National Orchid Society's
meeting in Unionville, Connecticut about 3 weeks ago. One is a
phalenopsis, and the other is a "Dtps. 'Sweetheart."' I was told when I
bought them to not take them out of the plastic and moss they came in but
to get pots or bowls 2" bigger in diameter and place on top of pebbles so
they will not sit in water. I bought 2 glass bowls and the glass flattened
marbles to put them in, and since then they have been losing blossoms!!!!!!
I check the moisture every day, and it has seemed moist but not damp and I
can't figure out what's wrong! I slid the phalenopsis out of the pot to
check it and the roots weren't squishy, but there were a couple of small
patches of white fuzz among some of the roots. What is this? How can I
save my orchids?? Please help me. I love them and don't want to lose them
(or the investment I put into buying them)
Thank you!
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